Introduces Lipovetsky's argument for expanding our conception of fashion as the major force for shaping the forms of contemporary social experience before we apply it to an analysis of the micro-structures of the art system. Shows that fashion provides the mechanism for innovation that is an essential feature of the dynamic structure of the art system, and concludes that fashion is a necessary, immanent and value-free aspect of art. Considers Damien Hirst's exhibition at the Institute of Contemporary Arts (London), Dec 1991-Feb 1992, as a case study for the examination of the apparent conflict between the values of authenticity and the process of fashion.
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